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Sunscreens

The Sunscreen Debate
Many customers have asked why we don't stock very high protection sun products or moisturisers containing SPFs. This has been a difficult area for us, as we are aware that there are more and more stories of skin cancers linked to excessive sun exposure, as well as evidence showing that skin ages much more quickly when exposed to UVA rays. However, there is also a large body of evidence which suggests that the use of sunscreens can be increasing our risks of skin cancer as well exposing us to other dangers.

While the sales of sun protection products has been growing at about 5% a year so has incidences of deadly melanoma skin cancer. Some experts suggest that these new cases may come from sun damage suffered decades before. But, why do some studies show sunscreen users suffering more cancers? In 1998, researchers at the Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center in New York found sunscreen not only ineffective in stopping skin tumors but, to actually increase the risk of melanoma, the deadliest form. In a comprehensive review of ten studies, five showed those who used sunscreen had an increased risk of developing melanoma. Since the 1970s, sunscreen use has become increasingly common, yet the occurrences of melanoma continue to rise more sharply than any other type of skin cancer.

Scientists have noted that frequency of melanoma was the greatest in countries where chemical sunscreens have been aggressively marketed - it has been noted that the incidence of skin cancer has risen dramatically in the last 2-3 decades, during which time the use of potent UVB blocking sunscreen has also escalated..

From our research we have found that sunscreens come in two basic types, physical blocks and chemical blocks. The best known physical blocks are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, naturally occuring minerals which work as a barrier against sun damage.

There are companies who sell natural moisturisers which contain mineral sunscreens but there has been debate over whether these particles are small enough to allow the mineral to enter the blood stream and cause damage. Recent studies by Oxford and Montreal Universities suggest that these ultra-fine particles (nanoparticles) can cause free radicals to form in skin cells. The nanomaterial itself may be benign, but toxins, such as pesticides, could bind with the nanoparticles facilitating their transport into the body.

Based on these risks, the European Commission's Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-food Products (SCCNFP) is of the opinion that more information is needed to enable a proper safety evaluation of micronised Zinc oxide for use as a UV filter in cosmetic products.

Further a study by Churg et. al. at the University of British Columbia in their paper "Induction of Fibrogenic Mediators by Fine and Ultrafine Titanium Dioxide in Rat Tracheal Explants" (1999) (Churg, Gilks, Dai, UBC Dept. of Pathology. Am J Physiol Lung Cell Mol Physiol. Vol 277 Issue 5 L975-L982, 1999) found that nano particles of titanium dioxide, can be pathogenic or disease causing.

Kumazawa, et. al. in their study, "Effects of Titanium Ions and Particles on Neutrophil Function and Morphology" (Biomaterials 2002 Sep 23 (17): 3757-64) concluded that the danger posed to cells was dependent on the particle size of titanium dioxide. The smaller the particle size, the more toxic it is. This conclusion is relevant to the consumer because of the cosmetics industry's increasing use of nano pigments in sunscreens and colour cosmetics. Nanoparticles of titanium dioxide are used in sunscreens because they are colourless at that size and still absorb ultraviolet light.

A study by Powell (Powell, et. al. GUT 38, 390 1996) found that if titanium dioxide particles used to act as a sunscreen are small enough, they can penetrate the cells, leading to photocatalysis within the cell, causing DNA damage after exposure to sunlight, which could then lead to skin cancer. Studies with subjects who applied sunscreens with nano-sized titanium dioxide daily for 2-4 weeks showed that the skin can absorb the particles.

Coarse or fine particles of titanium dioxide appear to be safe and effective at deflecting and absorbing UV light and thus protecting the skin, but there is no legislation to demand that manufacturers make it clear what size particles they use, and as coarse particles of these minerals are not colourless, they are not ascetically pleasing to use.

Chemical blocks work by absorbing ultraviolet rays before they reach the skin's surface. PABA used to be the most popular sunscreen but it proved to be so harsh that most manufacturers stopped using it. But a new natural food-grade PABA derivative known as padimate O or PABA ester can be found in some natural skin care sun creams, and appears to cause few allergic reactions rather than the synthetic version. The worry is that, in May 1988, a new nitrosamine (which can be carcinogens) known as NPABAO was found in certain sunscreens containing padimate-O as the active ingredient (Pathak MA, Robins P. “A Response to Concerns About Sunscreens: A Report From the Skin Cancer Foundation.” J Dermatol Surg Oncol. 15(5):486-487, 1989).

In March 1998, Dr. John Knowland of the University of Oxford reported studies showing that certain sunscreens containing PABA and its derivatives can damage DNA, at least in the test tube experiments. When a chemical sunscreen, Padimate-O, was added to DNA and the mixture exposed to the ultraviolet rays of sunlight, it was found that the sunscreen broke down in sunlight, releasing highly active agents that could damage DNA. It did not block out the UV, but instead absorbed energy. "It became excited and set off a chemical reaction that resulted in the generation of the dangerous free radicals and broken DNA strands that can lead to cancer," he said and further commented that while it's too early to make blanket recommendations, "I would not use a product containing PABA, Padimate-O or other PABA derivatives."

Further to all of the above, a number of scientists and doctors believe that sunscreens offer a false sense of security which can result in excessive sun exposure, and ultimately result in skin cancers. This is because that people believe that using sunscreens allows them to expose their skin to far safer levels of UVA and UVB rays than they actually do.

The upshot of all of this is that until there is clear research which shows that mineral sunscreens containing very small particles of minerals are indeed safe, we have taken the decision only to stock two products which we feel are the best compromise. We have decided to stock Yaoh's Sun Cream as this offers a low sun protection formula using only hemp and plant extracts to protect against the sun; in our view, the safest option at this present time. We have also recently added Pure Nuff Stuff's Sun Cream to our range, as although this contains titanium dioxide, the particle size is not 'nano' sized and sits on the skin rather than penetrating the skin. This does mean that the suncream leaves a slightly white tint to the skin, but we feel this is a small price to pay for safety in the sun. In conjunction with these sun creams we would always advocate following the advice below for safety in the sun:
1) Avoid strong sun where possible and bear in mind that the sun is at its strongest between 11am and 3pm, so during these times be extra vigilant and keep in the shade as much as possible.
2) Use natural, physical protection rather than sunscreens, such as light-coloured, loose natural clothing to reflect the sun's rays, umbrellas, hats with a wide brim back and front and shade.

We hope that this information helps to explain the minefield that surrounds the sunscreen issue, and allows you to make informed choices over your exposure to the sun.

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